Engine — assembly (Renault Espace I)

1. The assembly sequence is exactly the opposite of disassembly. However, pay attention to the following instructions during each assembly:

• a) Before starting assembly, check that all parts are clean and free of foreign bodies.
• b) Apply a thin film of oil to all parts that rotate or slide. This should be done before assembly, not after the parts have been assembled. It is especially important to generously lubricate the pistons, piston rings and cylinder walls with motor oil.
• c) If the engine has been completely disassembled, thoroughly clean all parts of the cylinder block. In case of partial disassembly, make sure that foreign bodies do not get into the undisassembled parts of the engine or into the cavities. All openings and cavities must be either plugged with rags or covered with cloth.
• d) It is best to clean the lubrication channels and holes with compressed air. If you do not have this opportunity, the channels and holes can be cleaned with a wooden stick, under no circumstances with metal objects. Sealing rings, gaskets, etc. should always be replaced with new ones. Do not reuse them under any circumstances.
• e) The specifications indicate the wear limits of the most moving parts. If you are in doubt, or the wear limit is about to be reached, it is better to replace the part.

2. The following description is given separately for each group of engines.

Engines with a capacity of 1995/2165 cm³ (J6R/ J7R/J7T)

3. Clean the cylinder block thoroughly. Remove the channel plugs and blow out the channels. Three plugs are installed on the side wall of the cylinder block and one on the end wall. Unscrew the plugs with a hex key. The tightening torque of the side plugs is 40 Nm, the end plug - 80 Nm. When assembling, refer to the illustration, which shows the position of the individual parts.



4. If possible, install the cylinder block on a mounting stand or workbench (open side up). Place the main bearing shells on the journals. When doing this, pay attention to the following:

• a) Bearing shells No.1, 3 and 5 are identical and have two lubrication holes. If these shells are reinstalled, they must assume their original position.
• b) Bearing shells No.2 and 4 are identical and have three lubrication holes and a groove. In case of reassembly, they must be installed in their original position.

5. Lubricate the bearing shells, as well as the main bearing journals and the crankshaft connecting rod journals with engine oil. Carefully insert the crankshaft into the crankcase and turn it several times so that the bearings can properly fit into place.



6. Insert the thrust washers for axial clearance with the antifriction alloy surface onto the crankshaft. Insert the lower shells into the bearing caps.

7. Install the main bearing caps according to their markings and secure them securely. Pay attention to the following points:

• a) Fit the bearing shells and caps to bearings No.2, 3 and 4 and screw in the bolts without tightening them. Make sure that all dowel pins are securely fastened.
• b) Bearing caps #1 and #5 can be mounted using two different methods, i.e. either silicone grease is applied to the cap or a safety seal is used between the cap and the cylinder block. Under normal conditions, the second method will suffice (sealant), however, you need to have a sealant (CAF 4/60 THIXO), which can be purchased from your dealer.
• c) Assemble main bearing caps No.1 and No.5, temporarily without side seal rings, completely. Tighten the bearing caps to the specified torque.
• d) Measure the bearing cap clearance (using a caliper) left and right as shown in Figure 3.7a. If the gap is less than 5.0 mm, the thickness of the seal should be 5.10 mm; if the gap is more than 5.0 mm, the thickness of the seal should be 5.40 mm. The seal has a white mark and can be recognized by this.
• e) Lubricate the edges of both bearing caps with sealant. The sealing washer has holes that should not be clogged with sealant, since oil penetrates into the crankshaft housing through them.
• f) Insert the liners into the bearing caps. Lubricate the liners and caps well before doing this.
• g) Screw two M12x1.50 studs into the cylinder block (in place of the bearing cap bolts) and place the bearing cap over them. To protect the sealing plates, place pieces of aluminum foil on each side between the cap and the sealing plate. Figure 3.7b shows how one of the caps is installed.
• h) Remove the foil, unscrew both studs and screw the bolts into the main bearing cap. Tighten all bearing cap bolts to 88-98 Nm. Make several test turns of the crankshaft to check its fastening.
• i) Use a sharp knife to cut off the ends of both sealing plates (see illustration 3.7c), so that the edges of the material protrude by 0.5 - 0.7 mm. As a result, additional sealing of the oil pan is provided.

8. Measure the crankshaft end play. A dial micrometer that fits into the cylinder block is best suited for this purpose (see illustration). Install the feeler gauge onto the end of the crankshaft (from the flywheel side). Now move the crankshaft back and forth using a square rod inserted between one of the crankshaft cheeks and the crankcase. The value that the micrometer shows is the axial clearance, which should correspond to the data in the specifications. If necessary, replace the adjusting washers in the middle main bearing.





9. Install the seals at the front and rear of the cylinder block. A punch is usually used for installation. Apply grease to the outside of the seal. If the same crankshaft is installed, which happens most often, and the working surface of the crankshaft is worn out at the friction point of the old seal, then the new seal must be driven in 1.5 mm deeper.

10. To install the front oil seal, use a piece of tube of the appropriate diameter and a large disk. Apply grease to the outside of the oil seal and insert it into the hole. Install the piece of tube with the disk and screw the long bolt into the crankshaft (see illustration). Cut off the edges of the sealing ring protruding beyond the outer surface. If necessary, drive the seal in 1.5 mm deep.





11. Before installing the flywheel, stock up on a small amount of sealant "Loctite Autoform" (or other sealant). Lubricate the well-cleaned flywheel surface with this product and install the flywheel. If a lock washer was installed, it is necessary to use the same (always change to a new one). The flywheel bolts should also be changed regularly. Lubricate the threads with a thread lubricant and tighten the bolts evenly to a torque of 60 Nm. After installation, the flywheel surface must be checked for runout. To do this, position the micrometer with a dial as shown in Illustration 3.8. Place the measuring probe on the rotating surface of the flywheel.

12. If a lock washer is used, bend the tab on its surface with pliers and press.

13. Place the sealing rings on the cylinder liner bases. They serve only as a seal for the coolant. The cylinder liners are located directly in the engine block. Measure the protrusion of the liners from the cylinder block. To do this, push the liners into the cylinders by hand until they stop. If the old liners are used, they must be installed in accordance with their numbers. Do not put on the sealing rings at this time.

14. Measure the sleeve protrusion as follows:

15. Install a micrometer on the top surface of the cylinder block (see illustration). Always start with the first cylinder.





16. Turn the micrometer holder so that the micrometer feeler gauge is on the upper edge of the cylinder liner. Set the micrometer pointer to zero in this position.

17. Now turn the micrometer holder so that the feeler gauge hits the cylinder block surface. The micrometer readings are the liner clearance value and are 0.08 - 0.15 mm.

18. If you do not have a dial micrometer, place a metal ruler on the cylinder liner and measure the clearance between the liner and the cylinder block surface using a feeler gauge.

19. The protrusion of the remaining liners is measured in the same way. Mark the liners with the cylinder number (in case new sleeves are installed) and measure the difference between two liners standing next to each other. It should not exceed 0.04 mm. If the difference is greater, try swapping the liners in the cylinders (provided that they are all new) and repeat the measurements.

20. Finally, remove the cylinder liners.

21. Further assembly of the engine is carried out in the following sequence:

22. Lubricate the pistons and cylinder liners with oil. Do not use a brush for this.

23. Insert the pistons and connecting rods into the holes on the back of the cylinder liners. Use a special tool designed to push the piston rings into the piston grooves. The mounting ring must match the diameter. The rings are fragile, so work must be carried out with great care.

24. The piston should protrude from the cylinder at the level of the piston pin. Put new sealing rings on the lower parts of the liners and insert the liners together with the pistons and connecting rods into the cylinder block. In doing so, pay attention to the following points:



25. If the same kits are installed, kit #1 is installed on the rear of the engine. The arrows on the bottoms of the pistons must point towards the flywheel. If the pistons are installed, all arrows must point as shown (see illustration).



26. The numbers on the connecting rod bearings and bearing caps must be on the same side.

27. Lock the installed cylinder liners in the cylinder block again using a special tool. Remember that the pistons and connecting rods can also fall out if you carelessly turn the engine.

28. Insert the bearing shell into the connecting rod and lubricate the bearing surfaces with oil. The connecting rod and bearing shell are provided with lubrication holes that must be closed.

29. Carefully guide the connecting rod to the crankshaft journal. The two connecting rod journals should be at BDC to facilitate installation.

30. Place the insert into the corresponding connecting rod cap and install the cap on the connecting rod according to the mark.

31. Tighten the connecting rod bearing nut to the tightening torque specified in the specifications. In doing so, observe the differences in tightening torque for individual engines.

32. Install the other two sets in the same way.

33. Rotate the crankshaft together with the flywheel to check the crank mechanism for jamming. Be careful not to pinch your fingers between the toothed rim of the flywheel ring gear and the crankshaft housing.

34. Place the oil pump onto the mounting pins and tighten the bolts.

35. Lubricate the journals of the intermediate shaft, push the shaft into the cylinder block and insert the key into the groove of the shaft. Align the bolt hole with the lug, insert the bolt and tighten (see illustration 3.35a). Fill the space around the intermediate shaft at the other end with engine oil to give the shaft an initial lubrication and fit the cover with a new paper seal and a new oil seal. When fitting, do not damage the oil seal and ensure that it is correctly centred. Figure 3.35b shows where the cover is located.





36. Drive the key into the intermediate shaft and put the pulley on. As you will notice, the pulley is not symmetrical (see illustration). The deeper side "a" should be turned towards the shaft, i.e. towards the cylinder block. Turn the shaft several times to check its movement.



37. The following parts are mounted in the indicated sequence:

38. Install the oil pan with a new sealing gasket.

39. Install the water pump.

40. Install the water pump outlet pipe and pulley.

41. Install the cylinder head. Two guide bolts should be made from old cylinder head bolts. To do this, saw off the bolt heads and cut grooves for a screwdriver. Screw the guide bolts into two diagonal corners of the cylinder head.

42. Place sealant on both guide bolts and both mounting bushings in the cylinder head.

43. Install the cylinder head, first on both bolts and then on both mounting bushings. Tap the head firmly with a plastic mallet. When installing the head, connect the outlet pipe of the cooling jacket.

44. Unscrew both guide bolts.

45. Make sure that the rocker arm tension bolts are loosened and place the rocker arms on the head. Make sure that the thrust washer in the rocker arm support #5 fits into the camshaft groove. The rounded ends of the rocker arms should fit into the pushrod cups.

46. Lubricate the cylinder head mounting bolts and washers with engine oil and insert them into the holes. Then tighten them in the sequence shown (see illustration 2.6a) tightening force of 50 Nm. Then tighten it again with a tightening force of 80 Nm, loosen it by a quarter of a turn and immediately tighten it again with a tightening force of 88-98 Nm.

47. Adjust the valve clearances as described below.

48. Install the ignition distributor and turn the camshaft until the larger segment of the drive gear is at the top.

49. Tighten the clamps of the connecting hose in the cylinder head.

50. Install the timing belt tensioners and tension the belt as described in a separate chapter.

51. Install the cylinder head cover, intake and exhaust manifolds, carburetor, fuel line, etc. in the reverse order of disassembly.

52. Press the friction disc onto the flywheel so that the longer side of the sleeve is on the outside, and install the clutch onto the flywheel. Center the clutch. Tighten the bolts evenly in a circular pattern.

53. After the engine is installed, start it and, when it reaches operating temperature, turn it off again.

54. Let the engine cool down (at least 2 hours) and remove the cylinder head cover. Measure the valve clearance and adjust if necessary. In this case, tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in Illustration 2.6a. Loosen each bolt by half a turn and tighten again with a force of 88-98 Nm.

Assembling a turbocharged diesel engine

55. Since the design of this engine is based on the engines just described, all the previously given instructions also apply to diesel engines. However, there are differences, for example in the installation of the cylinder head (when assembling the engine, follow the instructions until the flywheel is installed). The dimensions of the cylinder liners of a diesel engine also differ from those of a gasoline engine:

56. The sealing rings are located at the bottom of the liners. They serve only as a seal for the coolant. The liners are inserted directly into the cylinder block. Measure the protrusion of the liners from the cylinder block. To do this, push the liners into the cylinder by hand until they stop. If used parts are used, they must be installed according to the numbers. Do not fasten the sealing rings at this time. Measure the protrusion of the liners as follows:

57. Install a dial micrometer on the top of the cylinder block (see illustration). Always start with the first cylinder.



58. Move the micrometer holder so that the feeler gauge stops at the upper edge of the sleeve. Set the micrometer reading to zero in this position.

59. Then move the micrometer holder so that the feeler gauge is on the cylinder block surface. The micrometer reading is the installation size and is 0.05-0.12 mm.

60. If you do not have a micrometer, place a steel ruler on the surface of the sleeve and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the sleeve and the surface of the cylinder block.

61. Perform the same measurements on the other sleeves one by one. Mark the cylinder number on the sleeve (if new sleeves are to be installed) and determine the difference between the gaps of two adjacent liners. It should be no more than 0.04 mm. If the difference is greater, swap the liners in the cylinders, taking measurements all the time. You can also insert the liners in such a way that the difference between the protrusion of the liners gradually decreases, i.e. either from the first cylinder to the fourth, or from the fourth to the first, as shown in the lower figure of Illustration 3.57.

62. Finally, remove the liners from the cylinders and mark them with the numbers of the corresponding cylinders.

63. Further assembly of the engine occurs in the following sequence:

64. Lubricate the pistons and cylinder liners with oil. Do not use a brush for this.

65. Push the pistons and connecting rods into the sleeves from the bottom. Using a special tool, install the piston rings into the grooves. The ring must match the piston diameter. The rings are fragile, so work must be done very carefully.

66. Place new sealing rings on the bottom of the sleeve (see illustration 3.66) and insert the sleeves together with the pistons and connecting rods into the cylinder block. Pay attention to the following points:

• a) If the previous parts are installed, kit No.1 is installed from the flywheel side of the engine. Arrows on the piston bottom (drawn during disassembly on old or new pistons) should point towards the flywheel. If the pistons are installed correctly, all the arrows should point towards the same side of the engine (see illustration 3.25).
• b) The combustion chambers in the piston crowns must be directed towards the intermediate shaft.
• c) The numbers of the connecting rod bearings and caps must be on the same side. The oil hole of the connecting rod must be on the opposite side of the intermediate shaft (if the connecting rods are drilled).

67. Secure the sleeves installed in the cylinder block with bushings so that they cannot fall out again. Remember that pistons and connecting rods can also fall out if the engine is turned carelessly.

68. Insert the bearing shells into the corresponding connecting rods (into the previous connecting rods, if no replacement was made) and lubricate the surfaces of the liners.

69. Carefully guide the connecting rods to the crankshaft journals. Two of the connecting rod journals should be at BDC to facilitate assembly.

70. Insert the insert into the corresponding connecting rod cap and install the caps on the connecting rod in accordance with the marking.

71. Tighten the connecting rod bearing nuts to a tightening torque of 65 Nm.

72. Install both other kits in the same way.

73. Turn the crankshaft by turning the flywheel to check the uniformity of the crankshaft movement.

74. Place the oil pump on the mounting pins and tighten the bolts to 40-45 Nm. It is quite possible that the engine will be equipped with a plate on the lower surface of the crankshaft housing (see illustration). To secure and install the oil pump, bolts of different sizes are used, see. "Engine lubrication system". Bolt (1) holds the mesh oil receiver, bolts (2) are the mounting bolts.



75. Lubricate the journals of the intermediate shaft, push the shaft into the cylinder block and install the key in the groove of the shaft. Align the screw hole, insert the bolt and tighten (see illustration 3.35a). Fill the space around the intermediate shaft at the other end with engine oil to provide the shaft with initial lubrication and close the cover with a new paper sealing gasket and a new oil seal. The oil seal must not be damaged when installing the cover and must be well centered. For the location of the cover, see Illustration 3.35b.

76. Drive the key into the intermediate shaft and put the pulley on. On petrol engines, the fastening is done in the same way. Note that the pulley is not symmetrical (see illustration 3.35c). The wider side "a" should be turned towards the shaft, i.e. towards the cylinder block. Block the intermediate shaft and tighten the bolt. Turn the shaft several times to check its movement.

77. Install the vacuum pump together with the drive mechanism (see illustration). After installation, generously lubricate the pump shaft with engine oil so that the pump receives lubrication when the engine is first started. Push the pump all the way in. When the bearing surfaces touch, tighten the bolts. Rotate the intermediate shaft with the vacuum pump and oil pump assembly several times to check their connection.



78. Install the following parts in the order shown:

• Install the oil pan with a new gasket. See. "Engine lubrication system".
• Install the water pump. See. "Cooling system".
• Install the water pump return pipe and pulley.
• Install the cylinder head. Before installing, be sure to determine the thickness of the cylinder head gasket. Cylinder head gaskets come in 1.6, 1.7, and 1.8 mm. Choose the appropriate one. You can use a micrometer for this purpose. Otherwise, use a ruler.

79. Three main factors necessary for the perfect operation of the engine:

• The pistons must protrude the prescribed amount above the cylinder head surface. This protrusion will be balanced when the cylinder head gasket is installed.
• The valves should be deep enough in the seats. If the valves burn out, remove the top layer.
• The valve heads must fit precisely onto the piston bottoms. Conducting the check is quite difficult and requires special tools. If the piston and valve installation dimensions have been correctly determined, there is no need for such check.

80. Perform the following tasks:

81. If the specified locking pins were used, tighten the mounting bolts to a torque of 50 Nm.

82. Turn the crankshaft so that the piston of the first cylinder is positioned near TDC. If you have special tools (see illustration), mount a dial micrometer or a multimeter on the cylinder block wall. If a ruler and feeler gauge are used, they are also mounted on the wall. Set the TDC accurately and measure how far each piston extends from the cylinder block surface. Avoid pressing on the feeler gauge or piston while taking measurements. Record the resulting value.



83. Measure the piston extension on the opposite side of the cylinder block in the same way and record the result.

84. Now find the average value of the obtained results, i.e. sum both values and divide by "2".

85. Find the values for all pistons in this way. Turn the crankshaft accordingly to the TDC of the piston being measured. The piston with the largest output value determines the thickness of the cylinder head gasket. The resulting value should be considered as follows:

• If the average output is less than 0.96 mm, install a 1.6 mm thick shim. This shim can often be recognized externally by two holes (see illustration).
• If the average output value is 0.96-1.04 mm, install a 1.7 mm thick gasket.
• If the average output value is more than 1.04 mm, install a 1.8 mm thick shim.

86. To install the cylinder head, use two guide bolts from the old cylinder head mounting bolts. To do this, saw off the bolt head and cut the remaining bolt to a length of 150 mm. Make a cut for a screwdriver. Screw the guide bolts into two diagonal corners of the cylinder head.

87. Place the cylinder head gasket on both guide bolts and both mounting sleeves.

88. Install the cylinder head, first onto both pins and then onto both mounting sleeves. Tap the head firmly with a plastic mallet.

89. Remove both guide bolts.

90. Lubricate the cylinder head bolts and washers with engine oil and insert into the holes. Before installing the cylinder head, loosen the rear fuel pump mount.

91. Tighten all cylinder head bolts in the correct sequence (see illustration 2.25) tightening force of 30 Nm.

92. In the same sequence, tighten the bolts to a tightening torque of 50 Nm, then again to a torque of 95-105 Nm.

93. Wait a while and tighten the bolts again to a tightening torque of 105 Nm.

94. After the engine has run for 20 minutes and cooled for at least 2 hours 30 minutes, tighten the cylinder head fasteners as follows:

95. Loosen the rear fuel pump mount.

96. Loosen bolt No.1 by half a turn and tighten again with a tightening torque of 95 - 105 Nm.

97. Do the same with the other bolts, observing the tightening sequence.

98. Without loosening the bolts, tighten them again to a tightening torque of 95-105 Nm. Finally, re-secure the fuel pump.

99. Install the rocker arms and adjust the valve clearance as described in the relevant chapter for the diesel engine.

100. Install the timing belt tensioner and guides (see the relevant chapter).

101. Install the cylinder head cover, intake and exhaust manifolds and all other removed components in the reverse order.

V6 Engine Assembly

102. Illustration 3.102 shows the arrangement of the assembly parts of the cylinder block, crankshaft, etc. If a new crankshaft is installed and the car has a manual transmission, it is necessary to reposition the primary crankshaft bearing. New crankshafts do not have primary bearings. Before installing the bearing, lubricate its outer surface with special grease.



103. Before starting assembly, check the installation dimensions of the cylinder liners in each row. The liner should protrude from the cylinder block surface by 0.13-0.20 mm if the lower sealing ring is installed. Do not allow the protrusion to increase. Although there is a special measuring device, measurements can nevertheless be taken using a measuring probe. Measurements are taken as follows:

104. Install the micrometer (see illustration) on the top of the cylinder block and measure the difference in levels between the cylinder block surface and the liner surface.



105. From both results, select the larger value and subtract 0.20 from it to obtain the theoretical O-ring thickness at the bottom surface.

106. Install an O-ring of the calculated thickness or slightly less. O-rings are divided into three sizes and marked in three colors for identification. The following O-rings are available:

• Red 0.116 mm
• Colorless 0.136 mm
• Blue 0.166 mm

107. Place a sealing ring of suitable thickness on the cylinder liner. The sealing rings have teeth on the inner surface that need to be pushed into the recess of the cylinder liner (see illustration).



108. Slide the sleeves in so that the color of the ring is visible.

109. Check the installation dimension again as shown in Illustration 3.104. If necessary, namely:

• a) If the difference in the sizes of two adjacent sleeves is no more than 0.04 mm.
• b) If the surfaces of the sleeves of one row lie at the same level

110. Change the thickness of the sealing ring. If any differences are found, the sleeves should be positioned as shown in Figure 3.57 (for diesel engine).

112. After all the sealing rings have been selected, mark the liners with the numbers of the corresponding cylinders. The counting starts from the flywheel. The liners of the left cylinder head are marked 1, 2 and 3. The liners of the opposite cylinder head are marked 4, 5 and 6, respectively.

113. Remove the sleeves one by one and set them aside together with the sealing rings. Otherwise, if they get mixed up, you will have to take measurements again.

114. Turn the cylinder block upside down and clean the cylinders from foreign particles.

115. Place the upper bearing shell in the crankshaft housing. The guide protrusions must fit into the corresponding recesses in the bearing caps. The bearing shells with oil grooves are installed in the crankshaft housing; insert without oil grooves into the combined bearing cap. Lubricate the installed inserts well (if possible, avoid using a brush).

116. Carefully push the crankshaft into the bearing. Position the upper adjusting washers with the oil hole toward the crankshaft. The adjusting washers have a tongue on the bottom surface at the end, which fits into the corresponding recess. In addition, the washers have a copper surface and an oil channel. The illustration shows the end of the crankshaft with liners and adjusting washers.



117. Install the front and rear bearing caps with liners into the crankshaft housing (the guide tabs must fit into the recesses). Protrusion "A" in the bearing cap (see illustration 3.116) must be facing the pulley. Using a special device, secure the bearing caps (see illustration 2.63). Tighten the bearing cap nuts to 30 Nm and then loosen again.

118. Measure the crankshaft axial clearance. To do this, install a micrometer with a dial on the cylinder block, place the measuring probe on the surface of the end of the crankshaft (see illustration 3.8) move the shaft back and forth with two screwdrivers. If the clearance is not within 0.07-0.27 mm, you can install thicker adjusting washers in the rear bearing (there are four different sizes available), given that.; that the thickest adjusting washer has not yet been installed.

119. Assemble the piston-connecting rod-liner assemblies as described in the relevant chapter. Slide the assemblies into the cylinders according to the markings and install the retaining sleeves to secure the liners. After installation, make sure that the arrows on the top of the pistons point towards the front of the engine (see illustration).



120. Install the caps on the connecting rods according to the markings. New nuts are used for the caps.

Tighten the nuts to a torque of 45 Nm. Turn the crankshaft several times to ensure that the crank mechanism does not jam.

121. Remove the caps of both middle bearings, place the liners in them and reinstall. The bearing caps also have a protrusion on the side marked with the letter "A" (see illustration), the projections should be facing towards the front of the engine.



122. Install the rear oil seal together with the sealing gasket. Tighten the bolts. If the gasket protrudes beyond the edges, cut it off. At the front of the cylinder block (see illustration 3.121), there is a sealing ring for the oil line. Insert the sealing ring into the recess.

123. Install the lower crankcase.

124. Install the crankcase on the cylinder block and place the nuts on the studs without tightening them. Screw in the screws in a circular sequence. Do not tighten them either.

125. Connect the lower crankcase to the cylinder block. Now tighten the screws and nuts so that the parts cannot shift.

126. Tighten the eight lower crankcase nuts in the sequence shown (see illustration) tightening force of 30 Nm.



127. With the nut at an angle of 75° in the direction of rotation, determine the point. Then tighten the nut so that its angle is opposite the point (see illustration 3.126).

Note: To determine the exact angle of 75°, divide 90°, i.e. the right angle, into six parts. Five parts form an angle of 75°.

128. Tighten the installed screws in a circular sequence.

129. Secure the flange sealing ring. Tighten the bottom bolts first and then the six socket bolts.

130. Lubricate the new sealing ring with engine oil and carefully install it on the outside of the crankcase above the crankshaft.

131. Install the support plate into the lower surface of the crankshaft housing. Install a new sealing ring on the hole and attach the tube to the flange (see illustration).



132. Install the oil pan with a new sealing gasket and tighten the bolts evenly in a circular sequence to a torque of 20 Nm. Position the engine so that both cylinder banks are facing upwards and install the cylinder heads as follows:

133. Turn the crankshaft so that the keyway or installed woodruff key faces upward.

134. Make sure that the piston of the first cylinder is 15 mm below TDC (measure with a feeler gauge). If this moment is missed, the valves will hit the pistons. Start with the left cylinder head.

135. Slide a small punch below both dowels into the cylinder head (see illustration). It prevents displacement of the mounting bushings during installation of the cylinder head.



136. Insert the other installation bushings into the cylinder block against the punch.

137. Remove the cylinder liner mounting bushings from the left cylinder head.

138. Place a new cylinder head gasket on the block.

139. The left and right gaskets are different. The gasket for cylinders 1 through 3 is cut out more on the side.

140. Install the cylinder head assembly onto the block. Make sure that the mounting bushings fit precisely into the holes.

141. Turn the left camshaft to the indicated position (see illustration). It corresponds to the changeable position of the rocker arms of the first cylinder.



142. Remove the punches from the cylinder block.

143. Lubricate the rocker arm surfaces with graphite grease and install them together with the rocker arm shaft.

144. Lubricate the threads of the cylinder head mounting bolts and tighten them. The right cylinder head is installed in the same way, with the only difference being that the right camshaft must be turned to the specified position (see illustration). It corresponds to the interchangeable position of the rocker arms of the sixth cylinder.



145. Tighten the cylinder heads. This is a somewhat difficult job, since, like the crankshaft housing, the bolts are tightened at an angle. Proceed as follows:

146. Tighten each cylinder head bolt in the sequence shown (see illustration) tightening force of 20 Nm.

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147. Then tighten the bolts in the same sequence with a tightening torque of 60 Nm.

148. Loosen bolt No.1 and tighten again to a torque of 20 Nm. Do the same with the remaining bolts of both cylinder heads, observing the sequence.

149. To tighten the bolts to a certain angle, use the angle template Mot. 591-01. Place the angle template on the socket head (wrench) and turn the key 106° (see illustration).



150. Thus, tighten all cylinder head mounting bolts in the specified sequence.

151. The cylinder head bolts should be tightened further after the engine has warmed up to operating temperature. The engine should cool down for at least 6 hours, and then, using an angle template, the bolts are tightened further. The additional angle of rotation is 45°, i.e. half of a quarter of a full turn. Tighten the bolts in the established sequence, without loosening them first. The cylinder head bolts do not need to be tightened after a certain mileage.

152. Install the oil pump switch, tensioner shoes, both tensioners, fixed guide rails, sliding guide rails and chain sprockets. The sprocket guide mark should point outward (see illustration).



153. Adjust the valve clearances as described for the V6 engine.

154. Turn the crankshaft to the right until the center of the woodruff key is in line with the left cylinder bank.

155. Install the camshaft timing chain onto the left drive sprocket so that the double mark in the chain is positioned above the sprocket mark.

156. Place the camshaft drive chain on the inner crankshaft sprocket. Align the timing mark at the front of the additional sprocket (see illustration).



157. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. The locating pin must fit into the chain sprocket.

158. Tighten the sprocket bolt to a tightening torque of 75 Nm. The crankshaft must be locked.

159. Install on the right side as follows:

160. Turn the crankshaft 150° so that the timing mark (1) is in line with the lower bolt 1 (2) of the fuel pump cover (see illustration 3.156).

161. Install the chain onto the camshaft sprocket. The additional timing mark on the chain should be positioned above the timing mark on the sprocket.

162. Install the camshaft drive chain to the front crankshaft sprocket.

163. The individual timing mark in the chain must be in line with the timing mark of the chain sprocket. Both installed chains and timing marks of the chain sprockets are shown in the illustration.



164. Tighten the camshaft sprocket mounting bolt to a tightening torque of 75 Nm. Lock the crankshaft.

165. To check the timing marks, turn the crankshaft half a turn and make sure that the timing mark on the sprocket of cylinder bank "B" (see illustration 3.146) is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Then rotate the crankshaft 90° and make sure that the timing mark on the cylinder bank sprocket "A" is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

166. Then turn the crankshaft further until the keyway on the end of the crankshaft appears at the top.

167. Install the chain tensioners by turning the locking mechanism to the right with a screwdriver. To do this, insert the screwdriver into the hole in the front of each tensioner.

168. Turn the crankshaft so that the woodruff key is at the top and install the oil pump sprocket gasket, woodruff key and sprocket (see illustration).



169. Install the chain together with the oil pump sprocket. Lubricate the sprocket bolts with special grease. The tightening force is 6 Nm. The illustration shows the drive mechanism of the oil pump.



170. Install the camshaft drive cover gasket (dry), then install the camshaft drive cover on the two mounting pins and insert the bolts, the threads of which are lubricated with special grease. Trim off the protruding edges of the gasket with a knife.

171. Hammer a new sealing ring into the camshaft drive cover and install the crankshaft timing belt pulley. Lock the crankshaft (you can also install the flywheel in advance) and tighten the nut with a tightening force of 180 Nm. Also lubricate the nut threads with a special lubricant.

172. The rest of the installation is carried out in reverse order.

173. Inject some oil through the hole (1) (see illustration), to provide initial lubrication of the oil pump when the engine is started. Then install the oil filter. Tighten the filter by hand until it contacts the lubricated rubber ring and tighten it further from this position by 1/8 - 3/4 of a turn.



174. Secure the flywheel or drive pulley. The bolts must be replaced each time, as they cannot be reused. Tighten the flywheel bolts to 45 Nm and the drive pulley bolts to 65-75 Nm.