Warning! Be careful when changing a flat tire. It may have been punctured by criminals in order to steal valuables from the car while you are busy changing it.
1. Open the trunk (it contains everything you need to change a wheel) and, using your finger to pry the trunk floor mat through the hole...
2. ...fold back the mat.
3. Unscrew the spare wheel retainer...
4. ...and remove the retainer.
5. Remove the spare tire from the trunk and place it next to the tire being replaced.
6. Use the hook attached to the car to pry up the edge of the decorative cap...
7. ...and remove the cap.
8. Engage first gear and apply the parking brake. Place a jack under the vehicle next to the wheel to be replaced (see "Using a jack").
Note: To avoid getting dirty when changing a tire, wear gloves and protective clothing if your vehicle has them.
9. On the opposite side, the car must be secured by placing wheel chocks under the front and rear wheels so that the raised car cannot move forward or backward.
10. Using a jack, lift the car slightly, but so that the wheel that needs replacing does not come off the road. Using a wheel brace, loosen the four wheel mounting bolts.
Note: To make it easier to unscrew the bolts, we recommend purchasing a special wheel wrench with a telescopic handle. It is also convenient to work with a cross-shaped wheel wrench.
11. Jack up the car until the wheel is clear of the road, then completely remove the bolts and remove the wheel.
Attention! Try to keep the car suspended with the wheel removed for as little time as possible.
Raise the vehicle with a jack only to the height necessary to remove and install the wheel.
If you are working on soft ground, place a thick board under the base of the jack. Do not use bricks for this purpose - they easily split and the car may fall off the jack, seriously injuring you.
12. Install the spare wheel in place of the removed one, screw in the mounting bolts until they stop, but do not tighten them...
Attention! When screwing in the bolts, make sure that their conical parts are aligned with the conical surfaces of the holes in the wheel disk, otherwise the bolts will loosen while driving and the wheel may be lost.
13. ...lower the vehicle and tighten the bolts completely. Tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern.
Note: To feel the required tightening force for the wheel mounting bolts, use a torque wrench at first (tightening torque 105 Nm). Do not lubricate the mounting bolts - this may cause the bolts to loosen on their own while the car is moving.
14. Install the decorative cap.
15. Before continuing driving, be sure to check the air pressure in the tire of the installed wheel.
Note: The car has tubeless tires. If you do not have enough skills to install tires, we advise you not to try this job yourself. One sidewall damage and you will have to buy a new tire or install a tube.
In a desperate situation, you can use a special first aid kit for repairing tubeless tires without dismounting or tire sealant. They must be used in accordance with the attached instructions.
Why is a tubeless tire better than a tubed tire? Firstly, a tubeless tire "deflates" very slowly when punctured: you can drive for weeks with a nail in the wheel, pumping it up, until you have an opportunity to repair it. Secondly, when, after a very significant mileage, wires of the metal cord start to stick out of the tubeless tire, it can still be used as a spare wheel. There is no point in inserting a tube into such a tire - it will be punctured already during the first inflation.