Collapse - the angle by which the plane of rotation of the front wheels deviates from the vertical axis when viewed from the front of the car. Camber is considered positive when the tops of the wheels are deviated outward. This angle affects the area of the tire tread contacting the road. Camber of the front wheels can be adjusted using a special template.
Longitudinal tilt of the wheel pivot axis - the projection of the angle between the wheel turning axis and the vertical onto the vertical plane along the vehicle. The longitudinal tilt of the wheel turning axis is positive when the axis is tilted backwards. This angle is set during vehicle production and cannot be adjusted.
Lateral tilt of the wheel pivot axis - projection of the angle between the axis of rotation of the wheel and the vertical onto the vertical plane across the car). The transverse tilt is also not adjustable.
Convergence - deviation of the plane of rotation of the wheels from the longitudinal axis of the car. Toe-in is positive when the front parts of the wheels are directed inward. Negative (reverse) toe-in is when the front parts of the wheels are directed away from each other.
The front wheel alignment is adjusted by changing the length of the steering rods by moving the ends along them. The rear wheel alignment is not adjusted.
Front wheel alignment
Since checking and adjusting wheel alignment angles requires special measuring equipment and a certain skill, it is recommended to entrust this work to a service station. If you decide to do the work yourself, proceed as follows.
1. For the measurement to be accurate, the vehicle weight must be nominal (unloaded and with a full fuel tank). Make sure there is nothing unnecessary in the car.
2. Before starting work, make sure that the vehicle is equipped with the correct size and type of tires, then check the tire pressure and tread wear. Also check the wheels for runout, the steering wheel for play, the condition of the wheel bearings and the front suspension components (see Chapter Maintenance). Correct any faults found.
3. Park the car on a level place (not downhill) and set the front wheels to the "straight ahead" position. Rock the rear and front of the car so that the suspension components are properly positioned. For the same purpose, release the handbrake and roll the car back approximately 1 meter, and then return it to its original position.
4. Measure the distance between the extreme front and rear points of the inner edges of the wheel rims. Subtract the second measurement from the first and make sure the result matches the data given in Specifications.
5. If adjustment is necessary, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Turn the steering wheel to the extreme left position and count the number of turns of the thread protruding from the end of the right tie rod. Now turn the steering wheel to the extreme right position and count the number of turns of the thread on the left side. If the number of turns of the thread is the same on both sides, then the subsequent adjustment must be made equally on both rods. If more turns of thread are visible on one side than on the other, this difference must be compensated for during adjustment.
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Note: After adjustment, the same number of thread turns should protrude from the tie rod ends.
6. Clean the threads of the tie rods; if it is corroded, use a special penetrating liquid before starting the adjustment. Loosen the outer clamps of the rubber boots of the steering gear, then bend the boots so that they do not stretch or twist during the adjustment. Apply a small amount of grease to the boots.
7. Using a ruler and marking tool, mark the steering rods and their ends. Unscrew the rod end bolts.
8. Change the length of the steering rods (taking into account the Note provided above), by screwing them in or out of the ends. Place a double-ended wrench on the chamfers of the rod and rotate it. Shortening the rods will reduce the toe-in, and vice versa.
Note: Moving the tie rods one turn will change the toe angle by 30' (3mm).
9. Once the correct toe-in is achieved, tighten the tie rod end clamp bolts. Make sure the ball joints are seated correctly in their sockets and that the number of thread turns on the portions of the tie rods protruding from the ends are equal. Incorrect adjustment will throw off the steering wheel centering and cause uneven tire wear.
10. Once the adjustment is complete, lower the vehicle to the ground and recheck the toe-in. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. Tighten the tie rod end clamp bolts. Make sure the rubber steering box boots are not twisted or stretched, then secure them with new clamps.