English Русский
Български
Беларускі
Український
Српски
Hrvatski
Română
Polski
Slovenský
Magyar
Bookmark Contacts Articles Sitemap
Company vehicles Peugeot Company vehicles Opel Company vehicles Skoda Company vehicles Land Rover Company vehicles Mitsubishi Company vehicles Volkswagen Company vehicles Honda
RenaultBook.ru
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Duster   Fluence   Kangoo   Laguna   Logan   Megane   Sandero   Scenic   Symbol   Clio   Other
Logan 1 (2004-2012, petrol) Logan 2 (2012-2020)

Restoration of threaded connections (Renault Logan 1)

  • Main
  • Logan
  • Logan 1 (2004-2012, petrol)
  • General information
  • Driver tips
  • Restoration of threaded connections
0
Contents: Unscrewing rusty threaded connections 🠛 Unscrewing damaged nuts 🠛 Hexagon socket or hexagon head bolts 🠛 Removal self-tapping screws with…🠛 Turning out and screwing in studs 🠛 Drilling out a broken bolt 🠛 Thread cutting 🠛
Almost all car repair operations involve loosening nuts, bolts and screws. Over time, threaded connections rust, become corroded, bolt and nut faces become damaged, screw splines become stripped and loosening becomes a problem. Below are tips to help you get the job done.

Unscrewing rusty threaded connections



Before installing the wrench on a heavily rusted nut, clean the exposed threads from dirt and corrosion.

1. Clean the threads with a wire brush and apply a penetrating compound to the threaded part.

2. When using a fast-acting compound, begin to loosen the nut immediately after applying it.

3. When using a slow-acting compound, begin disassembling the unit after the penetration period has elapsed.

Unscrewing damaged nuts



If the edges of the nut are damaged, use a special tool:
  • tighten the nut with an adjustable collet wrench. This may be enough to loosen it;
  • chop off the nut with a sharp chisel;
  • if the nut is easily accessible, you can saw it along the axis; this method does not damage the bolt thread;
  • carefully, without damaging the threads, use a special device for splitting nuts.

Note: Self-locking nuts with a Teflon insert are very often used in threaded connections. After unscrewing such a nut, replace it with a new one, since the locking function of the old nut is lost after unscrewing.




Hexagon socket or hexagon head bolts



To remove these bolts, clean the inside hole in the head and use a suitable wrench. A set of Allen keys or multi-tooth wrenches are best for this purpose. Before removing the bolt, carefully tap the head with a hammer so as not to damage it - this may make it easier to remove the bolt.

Removal self-tapping screws with straight and Phillips slots



Sometimes, heavily rusted connections cannot be unscrewed with a screwdriver. After several unsuccessful attempts, the slot is crushed and it becomes impossible to unscrew the screw in the usual way.

1. If you are unable to remove the screw, take a suitable screwdriver and try to remove it by hitting the screwdriver handle with a hammer.

2. If the screw breaks, drill out the remaining part.

3. If you cannot remove the screw by hand, use an impact screwdriver.

Turning out and screwing in studs



The pin has no surface for the key to catch on, so follow these steps to remove the pin.

1. Screw two nuts onto the free threaded part and lock them by turning them towards each other.

2. Having secured the nuts in this way, unscrew the stud.

Drilling out a broken bolt



The threaded hole in which part of the bolt remains can be left undamaged if you do the following.

1. Punch the bolt fragment exactly in the center. To make punching easier, file the fracture if possible.

2. Drill out the bolt fragment. The drill diameter should be 0.8 of the thread diameter. For example, for an M6 threaded connection, the drill diameter should be 4.8 mm.



3. To drill out large bolts, use a small diameter drill bit first.

4. Remove the remaining parts of the bolt after drilling and "go through" the threads with a tap.

Thread cutting



Very often during the repair process there is a need to restore damaged threads or cut new ones.

Threads are cut quite easily in light alloy metals, since their hardness is not high, unlike steel. If it is impossible to cut a thread of the appropriate size, cut a larger thread.

Restoring a crushed, damaged thread or cutting a new one takes place in three stages, the thread is cut sequentially with three taps: first with a tap with the first number (it has one annular groove on the shank), then with a tap with the second number (with two annular grooves on the shank) and finally with a tap with the third number (with three annular grooves or without grooves). Before screwing in, the taps must be lubricated with oil.

To prevent the tap from breaking when cutting threads, screw it in periodically and turn it back to remove any chips that form.
This article is available on: russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
Article has been reviewed by editor: Podkrepilov Maxim
Share with friends:
Previous
Logan 1: Driver tips
Next

Pre-Work Activities
Basic and special tools
Safe car lifting
Safety precautions during repair work
Changes to state standards on maximum permissible content of harmful…
Auto Body Repair Tips
Other articles on other Renault models

➽ Tightening torques for critical threaded connections Renault Sandero 1 (2007-2012, petrol)
➽ Tightening torques for threaded connections Renault Scenic 1 (1996-2003)
➽ List of connections Renault Duster 1 (2009-2017)
➽ List of electrical equipment components, connections, connectors… Renault Kangoo 1 (1997-2007)
➽ List of electrical appliances, electrical connections and… Renault Laguna 2 (2001-2007)
Link to this article in different formats
Reviews and comments of visitors
No comments yet


Add two numbers 43 + 20

       





Logan 2 (2012-2020) 
  • General information
  • Faults en route
  • Daily checks
  • Governing bodies
  • Maintenance
  • Power unit
  • Petrol engines 1.2 l
  • Petrol engines 1.6 l
  • Diesel engines 1.5 l
  • Cooling system
  • Lubrication system
  • Power and control system
  • Intake and exhaust system
  • Engine electrical equipment
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Car gearbox
  • Drive shafts
  • Chassis, running gear
  • Suspension and wheels
  • Brake system
  • Steering
  • Body and interior
  • Exterior (external elements)
  • Interior (internal elements)
  • Safety system
  • Heating and air conditioning
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Wiring diagrams (sedan)
  • Wiring diagrams (wagon)
Logan 1 (2004-2012, petrol) 
  • General information
  • Vehicle device
  • User manual
  • Faults en route
  • Daily maintenance
  • First maintenance
  • Second maintenance
  • Driver tips
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Lubrication system
  • Cooling system
  • Power and exhaust system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Car gearbox
  • Drive shafts
  • Chassis, running gear
  • Front suspension
  • Rear suspension
  • Steering
  • Brake system
  • Wheels and tires
  • Body and interior
  • Exterior (external elements)
  • Interior (internal elements)
  • Doors, locks and windows
  • Body Care
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Headlights and lighting
  • Power devices
  • Electrical circuits
RenaultBook.ru © 2018–2026 | Mobile version | News and articles | Sitemap: EN BG BY UA RS HR RO PL SK HU | Administration | Site search | Bookmark
Duster 1 (2009-2017) | Fluence 1 (2009-2020, petrol) | Kangoo 1 (1997-2007) | Laguna 2 (2001-2007) | Logan 1 (2004-2012, petrol) | Logan 2 (2012-2020) | Megane 1 (1995-2002) | Megan 2 (2002-2009, petrol) | Sandero 1 (2007-2012, petrol) | Scenic 1 (1996-2003) | Symbol 1 (1999-2008, petrol) | Symbol 2 (2008-2013, petrol) | Renault 19 (1988-1996) | Espace I and II (1984-1996) | Espace III (1996-2002) | Clio 1 (1990-1998) |
We want your visit to be comfortable 😌 and use cookies 🍪 to do so.