Tires
They don’t walk on snow and ice in sandals - the car also needs to be changed for the winter. A lot has been written about winter tires, so we will briefly recall only the main points.
Tires marked for winter use are: «M+S» («Mud+ Snow» means mud + snow), «W» («Winter», or winter). These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or a cloud.
It is better to choose tires a little narrower than the ones you use in the summer - naturally, within the size range allowed for your car. The tread should push through the snow and mud porridge to a hard surface, narrow tires cope with this task better.
In winter, it is undesirable to use all-season tires - those that are marked with indices «AS» («All Seasons» - all Seasons) or «AW» («Any Weather» - any weather).
«Winter» their opportunities are weak; they can be considered all-season in the full sense of the word only if we are talking about Europe with little snow, and not about Russia.
Studded tires grip better on ice and snow than non-studded tires. But on clean pavement, when braking on spikes, the likelihood of wheel blocking, skidding and stopping distance increases: steel spikes glide well on asphalt. The danger also lies in the fact that drivers blindly believe in spikes and, braking on asphalt, expect the same stranglehold from them as on ice. By the way, non-studded winter tires of new generations on a slippery surface behave no worse than studded ones.
Some drivers in winter put studded tires only on the drive wheels. And on the followers they leave... summer. Don't do it, it's dangerous. On a slippery road, the probability of demolition of a non-studded pair of wheels is very high even in relatively harmless situations - the coefficients of adhesion and slip resistance differ too much.
Engine
The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. More often it occurs in relation to carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an engine equipped with an injection system may also encounter it. The reasons are known - thickened oil, a drop in battery capacity and poor evaporation of gasoline. We will consider oils and batteries separately, but for now a few words about the experience of countries with a cold climate, where pre-start electric heaters are widely used, such as «boilers» in the engine cooling system. I drove up to the house or office, plugged the plug into the socket, turned on the timer... By the right time, the engine will be warmed up, and some designs of heaters also provide interior heating.
Electric heating devices have been presented on the Russian market for several years. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers.
The main disadvantage of electric heating is that a house or office needs to have a special shield with a socket. The way out is an autonomous liquid fuel heater, which is also built into the engine cooling system and works on the principle of a hot water boiler. The fuel for it is gasoline or diesel, depending on what your car's engine is running on.
The benefit of heating systems also lies in the fact that when they are used, the engine resource increases. Each start of a cold engine at -20°C is equivalent to a run of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views, the motor will reach operating temperature faster, and its wear will be less if, after starting, you do not stand still, but start moving as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load on the engine.
Oil
Oil changes are usually made in relation to the mileage of the car, and not to the season. The vast majority of modern motor oils are all-weather to one degree or another. It is believed that it is necessary to fill in what is prescribed by the manufacturer in the car's operating instructions. But winters are different - both warm and slushy and frosty. And it is completely unclear whether the manufacturer assumed that his car would be operated in the conditions of the Russian winter and that he would need oil «colder».
If you decide to deviate from the requirements of the instructions, when choosing an oil, you can use a simple trick to determine its temperature suitability - for safety. Let's call this trick «rule 35».
The marking of engine oil must include the designation of its viscosity class according to the SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. This means that this oil has a viscosity at «negative» temperature meets the requirements for winter oils of class 15W, and at «positive» - to class 40 summer oils.
remember the number «35». If you subtract from it «winter» viscosity index (in our example it is «15»), then you get a value called the limiting pumpability temperature, i.e. the temperature at which the oil still remains fluid: 35–15=20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to -20°C.
Accordingly, the less «winter» viscosity index, the oil «colder»: 10W - up to -25°С; 5W - up to -30°С.
That's what it is «rule 35» - simple and useful.
Battery operation
The frost has hit, and the battery, which had been briskly turning the starter yesterday, flatly refuses to do so. No wonder: when was the last time you charged it?
If the battery is relatively «young» (up to 3–4 years), then in anticipation of winter it is enough to wash it outside, clean the terminals and fully charge (if the car was constantly operated in the city, the battery charge is probably far from the nominal). If the battery is old and does not charge to its nominal capacity, change without hesitation, otherwise it will let you down in winter - the capacity drops so much with decreasing temperature, and then there is also increased energy consumption: heater, heated seats, light, «wipers», rear window heater...
According to experts, the average duration «full life» battery life is about 12 months, then a gradual «withering». And the peak of sales of starter batteries, according to sellers, falls just in the fall.
The times when the car owner was knocked down in search of a new battery are long gone: the variety of brands and models on store shelves dazzles the eyes. Which one to choose is a personal matter for everyone. We only note that two price groups can now be distinguished on the market: batteries costing over $60 (usually up to $100), such as Bosch, Steco, American, Fiamm, and batteries under $60 (Mutlu, Inci, Centra, SAEM, etc.).
The higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by the more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally categorized as maintenance free. Special types of electrolytes and hermetic design of such batteries increase their resource and provide high starter currents, which guarantee cranking of the engine crankshaft even in severe frosts. Leading manufacturers now make it mandatory to use wafer stacking technology, as a result of which it is possible to avoid a short circuit of the battery in case of their destruction.
Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level.
Often, when buying a new battery, they try to choose a larger capacity, so that the battery fits into the space allotted for it. But capacity is not the point. Much more important is the starter current provided by the battery. After all, even with a high-capacity battery, this indicator (due to high resistance) may be lower than a battery with a lower capacity. In addition, a large capacity battery requires a higher charging current, which your car's alternator will not provide, and the battery will be discharged more and more during operation, which will have a deplorable effect on its life.
When buying a battery that differs from the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals: there are batteries «reverse polarity», to the terminals of which the wires of your car may not reach.
Ignition system
Before the onset of winter, do not forget about high-voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our «salty» it is advisable to replace them on roads, it is best to use wires with a silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. In addition, frost does not form on them, which is often the reason for the absence of a spark. A commonplace cause of malfunctions in the ignition system may be corrosion or poor tightening of the battery terminals.
Separately - about candles. Usually they are changed every 15–20 thousand km, i.e. once in a year and a half (some ultra-modern candles can withstand 100 thousand kilometers or more). save on candles (ignite, clean and adjust gaps) not worth it. Replace spark plugs at least once a year - it's inexpensive. Install new spark plugs ahead of winter.
Supply system
Often, the power system is the cause of unsatisfactory engine operation in winter. And all because of the accumulated water condensate in the fuel tank. If there is a drain plug in the tank, the water can simply be drained; if not, then «neutralize», by applying so-called moisture displacers. Almost all leading manufacturers of auto chemical goods (STP, Loctite, Wynns, Aspokem) offer similar drugs: poured into the fuel tank, they gradually clean the power system.
It will not be superfluous to install a new fine fuel filter, make sure the injectors are clean.
Body
Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving on streets heavily sprinkled with salt. It is during this period that the body is exposed to corrosion to the maximum, so its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to employees of some authorized service stations, for a number of new foreign cars, especially with a galvanized body, factory processing is quite enough.
Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for domestic use, it is still preferable to carry out treatment in a specialized service center. It is worthwhile to find out in advance on what technology it is performed. In any case, before applying a protective coating on the bottom and arches, the machine must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.
Winter is a difficult test for body paintwork. Sudden changes in temperature, snow mixed with salt, ice crust - all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. The surface of the body can be protected with special compounds suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Treatment with these preparations is carried out approximately once a month after the obligatory washing of the car and drying it.
The question of where to keep the car in winter is actually usually not worth it: those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who do not have it on the street. Oddly enough, from the point of view of the safety of the body (from corrosion, not from theft) between trips and at night it is better to leave the car on the street - with a cold body, the corrosion process is slower. In a cold garage, the heat generated by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt actively do their dirty work for some time. Well, in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the car from salt from below, it will stand wet all night...
Glass
Visibility is not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore, it is hardly worth recalling that the windshield wipers, blowing and heating the windows must be in good order. Feel free to throw away brushes that leave matte streaks on the glass. And when buying new ones, try to choose branded ones - Bosch, ITE, Champion, etc.
Residents of the northern regions can try heated brushes that are connected to the on-board network; they went on sale not too long ago.
Now directly about glasses. It is better to entrust their examination to a specialist, but personal control will not hurt either. Even a small chip on the windshield in the first frost after the autumn rain will turn into a full-fledged crack. Existing repair technologies make it possible to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It is easier and cheaper than glass replacement.
Another one «winter» The problem is the fogging of the windows. With a good ventilation system, it rarely occurs, but... It helps to use anti-fogging fluids, such as Anti-Fog or Never Fog, which are enough to be applied to the glass once a week.
Operating materials
All consumables, including antifreeze and hydraulic fluids in brake and clutch actuators, have their own service life. If even the slightest doubt arises, it is not necessary to take a portion of antifreeze that has turned brown or green with age from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace antifreeze. And do not save money by buying dubious drugs without labels and certificates - it will cost more.
No less careful should be approached to the choice of antifreeze liquids for glass washer. This is in the countryside at -20°C under the wheels of dry and clean snow. And in Moscow, even in severe frost - a dirty greasy slurry, which the brushes willingly smear on the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, a supply of fluid in the windshield washer reservoir is a prerequisite for safe driving. But when buying a liquid with a freezing point of -20°C, do not flatter yourself and do not dilute it, even if it is -10°C outside. Practice shows that on the move, liquids with a freezing point of -40°C freeze on the windshield even in ten degrees below zero, if the glass is not heated (to the question of the health of the ventilation and heating system).
Anti-freeze windshield washer fluids usually contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean the glass. Some of them, it is true, foam too much, but they are also much better than cheap vodka, which some people prefer to pour into a tank.