Note: This action is not part of the maintenance procedures. This should only be done if valve mechanism noise is detected, or if there is a suspicion that power is being lost due to incorrect valve clearances. A new valve cover gasket may be required.
1. Where applicable, disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the valve cover.
2. Unscrew the nuts from the valve cover and remove the cover from the engine (see illustration).
4.2. Remove the valve cover.
Remove the gasket.
3. Remove the spark plugs as described in Section 1, to make the engine turn over more easily.
4. Draw the location of the valves on a piece of paper, numbering them from 1 to 8 from the flywheel side for intake and exhaust according to the cylinders (those. 1E, 2I, 3E, 4I, 5I, 6E, 7I, 8E) (see illustration).
4.4. Designation of cams on the F3P engine: A - Inlet; B - Graduation.
5. Turn the crankshaft until the valves of cylinder No. 1 are in an intermediate position - i.e. the exhaust valve is closed and the intake valve is open. The piston of cylinder #4 will be at the top of the compression stroke, and both of its valves will be completely closed - now you can check the clearances for both valves of cylinder #4.
6. Insert the feeler gauge of the correct thickness (see Specifications) between the working projection of the cam and the washer on the top of the tappet (see illustration).
4.6. Measuring valve clearance.
If the feeler gauge fits freely or does not fit at all, use feeler gauges of different thicknesses to determine the exact gap and record it so that you can later calculate the required thickness of the new washer. Please note that the intake and exhaust valve clearances are different - see Specifications.
7. After checking the valve clearances of cylinder #4, rotate the crankshaft half a turn so that the valves of cylinder #3 are in an intermediate position, then check the valve clearances of cylinder #2. Also check the clearances of the remaining valves in the following sequence:
| Valves in intermediate position on the cylinder | Check the clearances on the cylinder |
| 1 | 4 |
| 3 | 2 |
| 4 | 1 |
| 2 | 3 |
8. If the valve clearance differs from the specified value, the adjusting washer must be replaced. The thickness of the washer is printed on its bottom side (see illustration), but it is better to measure it with a micrometer, since the thickness may be less due to wear.
4.8. The thickness is engraved on the back of the washer.
9. The thickness of the required washer is calculated as follows. If the measured gap is less than that specified in Specifications, subtract the measured gap from the one specified in Specifications, and subtract the result from the thickness of the existing washer. For example:
Calculation example - the gap is too small
Measured gap (A) - 0.15 mm Required gap (B) = 0.20 mm Difference (B - A) = 0.05 mm Thickness of installed washer = 3.70 mm Required washer thickness = 3.70 - 0.05 = 3.65 mm
10. If the measured gap is greater than that specified in Specifications, subtract the one indicated in Specifications gap from the measured gap, and add the result to the thickness of the existing washer. For example:
Calculation example - the gap is too big
Measured gap (A) = 0.50 mm Desired gap (B) = 0.40 mm Difference (A - B) = 0.10 mm Thickness of installed washer = 3.45 mm Required washer thickness = 3.45 + 0.10 = 3.55 mm
11. The washer can be removed from the tappet without removing the camshaft if you have a special Renault tool (see illustration).
4.11. Renault tool for removing the adjusting shim. Position the grooves (A) perpendicular to the camshaft.
12. To remove the washer, the tappet must be pressed against the pressure of the valve spring. In theory, this can be done by pressing the lever against the camshaft between the working surfaces of the cams with a suitable screwdriver, pressing the tappet with the adjusting washer down, but this is not recommended by the manufacturer. If you do use this method, be very careful not to damage the camshaft, cylinder head or tappet. The working projections of the cams should be directed upward when pressing the pusher, and the pushers themselves should be turned so that their cuts are located perpendicular to the camshaft axis.
13. Something similar to the Renault tool can be made by bolting a rod to the camshaft bearing struts and pressing down on the washer with a heavy duty screwdriver. The contact block should be in the form of a triangular metal block with a sealing edge on each side, when you press the plunger, the valve will open and the washer can be removed.
14. Make sure that the working protrusion of the cam should be facing strictly upward when pressing the pusher, rotate the pusher so that the cuts are perpendicular to the camshaft axis. Install the washer with the thickness marking facing down.
15. If the Renault tool is not available and a suitable replacement cannot be made, then to remove the washers it will be necessary to remove the camshaft as described in Chapter 9.
16. Remove the socket or wrench from the crankshaft pulley bolt.
17. Install the spark plugs as described in Section 1, then install the valve cover with a new gasket. Connect the crankcase ventilation hose (where it is applied).