Minor body damage — restoration (Renault Clio 1)

Note: For more detailed information on body repair, please refer to the dedicated book "Body Repair Guide." This publication includes detailed information on such aspects as treating corroded areas, painting, repairing fiberglass components, and more complex body repairs requiring welding and panel straightening.

Repair of minor car body scratches

If only the paint is scratched, repair is very simple. Wipe the damaged area with a special compound to remove loose paint and clean the surrounding areas from the protective polish, then rinse it with clean water.

Paint over the scratch using a thin brush; continue applying thin coats of paint until the damaged area is even with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint to dry for at least two weeks, then buff out the scratch area and wax it.

If the scratch has damaged the body metal, causing rust, use a different repair method. Use a pocket knife to scrape away any rust from the bottom of the scratch, then apply a primer to prevent future rust. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with filler. If necessary, the filler can be mixed with a special cellulose-based compound to produce a very fine paste, ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the filler in the scratch hardens, lightly rub a cotton swab soaked in cellulose compound over the surface of the filler so that its level is just below the surrounding paint layer. The scratch can now be painted as described above.

Dent repair

When a dent is deep, the first task is to smooth the surface as close to the original shape as possible. There is no point in trying to restore the original shape completely, since the metal in the damaged area has "stretched" and cannot be completely returned to its original contour. It's best to leave the dent at a depth of approximately 3 mm. If the dent is superficial, this shouldn't be done at all. If the back of the dent is accessible, it can be leveled by gently tapping it with a wooden or plastic straightening hammer. While doing this, place a wooden block on the outside of the dent to absorb excessive force from the impact and thus prevent the car body from developing bulges.

If the dent is in a two-layer body section or the back side is not accessible for another reason, use a different technique. Drill several small holes into the damaged area, primarily at the bottom of the dent. Screw long self-tapping screws into the holes to ensure a good grip on the metal. Now the dent can be straightened out with pliers.

The next stage of repair is removing paint from the damaged area. It is necessary to cover the surrounding undamaged area by approximately 2.5 cm. The paint can be easily removed using a wire brush or sanding wheel attached to an electric drill. This can also be done manually using sandpaper. To ensure good adhesion of the filler, scratch the metal surface with a screwdriver or file, or alternatively, drill several small holes in it.

To complete the repair, see the "Priming and Painting" chapter.

Repair of holes and rusted-through surfaces of the body

Remove all paint from the damaged area and for 2.5 cm around it using a wire brush or sanding wheel attached to a power drill, or by hand using sandpaper. Assess the severity of the corrosion and decide whether to replace or restore the panel. New body panels are not as expensive as many people think, and it is better to install a new panel than to try to repair large corroded areas.

Remove components installed in the damaged area, except those that will help restore the original shape of the body (for example, headlight frames, etc.). Then cut out all damaged or rusty metal and trim the edges of the hole inward.

Clean the surface of the edges from rust. Cover the damaged area with anti-corrosion paint on both sides, if possible.

Seal the hole with aluminum or plastic mesh or aluminum tape.

Aluminum or plastic mesh or fiberglass is probably the best material for sealing large holes. Cut a patch to the appropriate size and shape and place it under the hole. Secure its edges with a few drops of filler.

For small or narrow openings, it is better to use aluminum tape. Cut the patch to the appropriate size and shape, then remove the paper backing (if used) and stick the tape on the hole. You can apply several layers of tape if the thickness of one layer is not enough. Run the handle of a screwdriver along the edges of the tape, ensuring that the tape is securely attached to the metal.

Body repair - priming and painting

Before attempting the steps in this Chapter, please refer to the Chapters on repairing dents, deep scratches, and holes.


There are many types of primers. Choose a kit that includes a can of filler and a tube of resin hardener that can be used directly from the tube. In addition, you will need a wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator.

Mix a small amount of filler and hardener on a piece of clean cardboard, carefully measuring out the hardener (follow the manufacturer's instructions), otherwise, the filler will harden too quickly or too slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler to the prepared area and level the surface with the applicator. Do not smooth the filler for too long, over time it becomes sticky and sticks to the applicator. Continue applying thin coats of filler at 20-minute intervals until the filler level is level with the surrounding body metal.

If the filler has hardened, excess can be removed with a file. The surface should then be treated with several grades of sandpaper, starting with coarser and moving on to fine-grained sandpaper. While doing this, wrap the sandpaper around a flat block to achieve a flat surface. Periodically wet the finest sandpaper so that the surface being sanded becomes completely smooth.

At this stage the "dent" should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal covered with a good coat of paint. Rinse the area being repaired with clean water to remove any sandpaper residue.

Spray a small amount of primer onto the surface to be treated - this will reveal any defects in the filler surface. Eliminate these defects with a new coat of primer or filler and sand the surface again. Mix the filler with a special cellulose-based compound to form a fine paste, ideal for filling small depressions. Repeat this procedure until you are sure the surface is perfect. Rinse the repair area with clean water and let it dry completely.


The repair area is now ready for painting. Spraying of paint should be carried out in warm, dry and windless weather or in a dust-free room. If you are working indoors, spray the floor with water to settle the dust. If the repair area is limited to one body panel, covering the surrounding panels will help minimize the effect of minor paint color mismatches. Components installed on the body (for example, chrome strips, door handles, etc.), also needs to be covered. Use duct tape and several layers of newspaper for this.

Before spraying, shake the paint bottle well, then practice the painting technique on a test surface (old tin, etc.). Apply a thick coat of primer to the repair area, using successive thin coats, and allow it to dry thoroughly. Sand the primer surface with the finest sandpaper, wetting it periodically as you work, rinse the sanded surface and let it dry again.

Spray paint on in thin layers. Start spraying in the center of the area to be painted, then use circular motions to reach the edges and extend them by approximately 5 cm. After 10-15 minutes of spraying, remove the coating from the surrounding panels.

Let the new paint dry for at least two weeks, then use a special polishing compound to blend its edges into the old paint. Finally, cover the repair area with wax.

Plastic components

With the increase in the number of plastic body components used by manufacturers (bumpers, spoilers and sometimes main body panels), repairing serious damage to them becomes a matter of choice: entrust the work to a specialist or replace the component. Self-repair of such damage is not possible due to the high cost of equipment and materials required for such repairs. First, a groove is made along the crack line, then a special plastic rod is placed in it and the crack is welded, melting the rod with a hot air gun. Excess plastic filler is then removed and the resulting surface is sanded. It is important to use the correct type of plastic, as case components can be made from different types of plastic.

Less serious injuries (abrasions, small cracks, etc.) can be eliminated by the owner himself using a two-component epoxy resin. Mixed in equal proportions, it is applied similar to the filler used on metal body panels. The resin typically hardens within 20-30 minutes, after which the repair area is ready for sanding and painting.

If the owner replaces or repairs the component themselves, they will face the problem of choosing a paint compatible with the given type of plastic, as there is no universal paint. Therefore, you will have to contact your dealer to select the right paint. However, it is now possible to purchase a kit for painting plastic body parts, consisting of filler, primer and paint. The kit usually comes with instructions, but the main method of use is to repair damage, dry (up to 30 minutes), subsequent application of a primer, which is dried for an hour before painting. As a result, the color is chosen correctly, and the paint has the properties of flexible plastic or rubber.